
Culture • 17 September, 2025
From earth and love: the secret of uzbek vines
At the soul of Uzbekistan, among breathtaking landscapes, lies one of the country’s most unique places – the family estate Uzumfermer. This is not just a farm, but a living organism where every patch of soil and every cluster of grapes is filled with the spirit of family, respect for tradition, and the pursuit of quality. Director Dmitry Lukyanov shared with us how a truly uzbek drink is created and what makes every guest feel instantly at home. – Tell us about the creation of Uzumfermer. – The story of Uzumfermer did not begin with vines, but with a dream – a dream of founding a family enterprise that would bring people closer together and allow them to share each day. Until 2018, there was only a small summer cottage on this land, which gradually became the starting point of a long journey. The founders, Rashid and Zimfira Akhunov, had worked in different fields all their lives, yet always longed for a shared endeavor. Thus, Uzumfermer was born – not as a business, but as a family philosophy rooted in love, trust, and the desire to create. My own involvement began in 2019, when I was invited to take part in something genuinely good – and I agreed. It was a challenge, an intrigue, and the feeling of becoming part of something truly special. Today Uzumfermer is more than a farm: it is the embodiment of passion, hard work, and family values. Our product has received international recognition and awards, yet it all began with a simple plot of land that grew into an extraordinary story. – Which grape varieties have you found most suitable for cultivation in Uzbekistan? – After a long journey of experimentation – we have grown more than 100 grape varieties – we discovered which ones adapt best to the local climate, soil, and spirit of the region. In the end, we chose technical varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Riesling – global classics that thrive in our terroir and offer a rich taste and aroma. For our guests, we also grow table varieties, but those are more about hospitality and pleasure than about commercial production. A special place is held by our exclusive variety, Jupiter – a Californian hybrid that produces a one-of-a-kind wine, unparalleled anywhere in the world, with notes of blackberry, blackcurrant, and mango. Our greatest pride, however, is our flagship wine Rundweis, crafted from the indigenous Bayan Shirey grape – a wine that embodies the very soul of Uzbek soil. We have always strived to create a product that meets international standards while carrying a distinct local character, and these varieties allow us to achieve just that. – Do you use innovations, and how do they affect product quality? – Uzumfermer has long embraced modern technology. For example, we use equipment that gently processes the grapes and employ drip irrigation systems to precisely control vine growth and harvest quality. Our priority is an organic approach: minimal interference, maximum care. After all, everything begins with the grape – from poor fruit, no matter how hard you try, you won’t get a good product. That’s why we carefully oversee every stage – from the growth of the vine to the harvest itself. Grapes are picked by hand at just the right degree of ripeness, delicately cut, cooled, and then sent for processing. This method preserves the purity of taste and aroma – that’s how a truly high-quality product is born. – Uzumfermer is not only a farm, but also a way of life. What values form its foundation? – As I’ve mentioned, it is the embodiment of family, hard work, and sincerity. Every guest who comes here becomes part of the family, witnessing and even taking part in the process. We are creating a cultural space that allows people to trace the journey from grape to table: strolling through the vineyards, observing the stages of production, and immersing themselves in the atmosphere of true homely comfort. The founders, Rashid and Zimfira Akhunov, live right on the estate. Zimfira personally tends the garden, while Rashid works directly with the product – like a philosopher and source of inspiration. Together they are a family that puts their heart into this work every single day, and guests can feel it: Uzumfermer is a place where everything truly comes alive. – Tasting is an art in itself. How do you create the special atmosphere for this ritual? Are there any traditions you follow? – Absolutely. We approach tasting with deep respect, treating it as a delicate, almost meditative process. Our specialists don’t simply set the table – they tell its story, help reveal the character of the wine, and guide guests in understanding its flavor. For every visitor, whether a novice or a connoisseur, we offer a profound, multilayered immersion into this unique world. We explain how to assess the color, aroma, and taste, what foods to pair it with, and at what temperature it should be served. We also have our own ritual: first comes the visual assessment, then the “first nose” – the initial impression of the aroma. Once the wine has had a chance to breathe, comes the “second nose”, and only then the tasting itself, with its balance, acidity, and lingering finish. But above all, what matters is not expertise, but openness. We always adapt to the guest, so that everyone leaves with a vivid and personal impression. – Name one place that best reflects the spirit of the estate. – Without question – the vineyard, because that’s where it all begins. No matter how advanced the production facilities are, the soul of the wine is born in the vine. Great taste starts with great grapes, and caring for them is no easy task. Farmers, as we say, have four enemies: summer, autumn, winter, and spring. Each season brings new risks and challenges, and the grapevine is a fragile, sensitive plant that requires daily care. We are in constant dialogue with nature. Everything that happens on the estate is directly linked to the well-being of the vineyard. A harvest can be lost in an instant – to weather, pests, or human error. For us, the vineyard is the heart of the farm: if it lives in harmony with the land, then the product, too, will be born with character and soul. – What is the Uzumfermer decorative garden like? – The Uzumfermer garden is the personal creation of co-founder Zimfira Akhunova. Inspired by her travels, it brings together more than 1,500 plant species and is divided into themed zones: a Japanese garden with sakura trees and a pond, a Balinese corner, a Chinese tea house, an Italian amphitheater, a Russian meadow, and a rose garden laid out in the shape of a girl holding a grape cluster – Zimfira’s gift to her husband. Each zone is like a living story, reflecting stages of the family’s life, serving as a symbol of inspiration, and becoming part of their cultural legacy. – What services does the mini-hotel offer, and what makes Uzumfermer’s cuisine unique? – A visit to Uzumfermer is more than just a stay – it is a cultural and gastronomic experience. In our mini-hotel and restaurant, guests are immersed in an atmosphere where fine dining meets the spirit of Uzbek hospitality. We organize tours, tastings, masterclasses, and meetings with winemakers. And our restaurant itself is an experience to remember. At first, we focused on European classics – steaks, pasta, cheeses – but it soon became clear that guests wanted authenticity. That’s how our ethnogastronomic menu was born, featuring plov, beshbarmak, fish, and lamb roasted on a spit. Our kitchen is open, allowing guests not only to watch the process, but also to join in – kneading dough, boiling meat, or cooking in a cauldron. It’s lively, sincere, and unforgettable. For us, the most important thing is that every guest leaves not just with photos, but with the feeling that they lived a small, rich life here, full of flavor, emotions, and warm encounters. – What role do you play in the development of agritourism in Uzbekistan? – We are confident that agrotourism is an important part of Uzbekistan's cultural development. This field reveals our country’s culture, making it closer, more understandable, and more flavorful for people from all over the world. It allows them to experience the connection with our land, climate, and traditions. We host tours, tastings, and take part in exhibitions and festivals. Our goal is to inspire – so that every guest leaves with new perspectives on the country, strong emotions, vivid impressions, and the feeling of having touched something alive and genuine. That, to us, is the essence of agritourism. – What inspired you abroad? Have you adopted any practices from other countries? – The founders of Uzumfermer have traveled extensively, studying traditions from around the world – from Georgian qvevri to oak barrel aging in France. We didn’t copy, but learned from the best, in order to create a product that truly reflects the voice of Uzbek soil. This experience helped us reach the international level. In 2023, we were recognized as Uzbekistan’s Best Producer by the Berlin Wine Trophy, and we regularly win gold medals at competitions such as Mundus Vini, Asia Wine Trophy, and Prodexpo. We have consulted with experts from Georgia, Moldova, and Russia, adapting their practices to local conditions and finding our own style. This is the essence of our production – a path built on respect for tradition, while searching for our own authentic voice. – What are your plans for the future? – Our main project is the construction of the region’s first gravity-flow winery in the foothills of Bostanlyk. Inspired by Spain’s Bodegas Baigorri, we are creating architecture where wine will be produced naturally – without pumps, in a careful and eco-friendly way. This will mark a new level of quality and the first project of its kind in Central Asia. Preparations are already underway: permits, design, engineering solutions… At the same time, we are continuing to develop our guest infrastructure. Expansion has already begun, and soon we will present new varieties and new spaces. – Do you collaborate with local farmers? – Very actively. Our winemaking community in Uzbekistan is still young, but it is growing stronger. We share experience, participate in forums, and support one another. There is no competition in the classic sense – there is mutual respect and the desire to grow together. We have about 20 hectares of our own vineyards, but when needed, we work with trusted farmers, especially from Parkent. Reliable partnerships are the foundation of consistent quality. Joint projects hold enormous potential. Together, we can promote Uzbek products to the world, develop a culture of consumption, and build a strong, diverse industry. – Imagine returning to the farm 50 years from now. How would you like to see it? – In 50 years, I would like to see Uzumfermer not just as a successful winery, but as part of Uzbekistan’s cultural history – a place that inspires, unites, and conveys the taste of the country to future generations. Today, we are only seven years old, yet we already hold more than 35 international awards. Ahead lies the creation of a tourism network across the country. We dream that in every tourist city – from Samarkand to Khiva – there will be a Uzumfermer spot where guests can taste local wines and leave with real emotions, not just a souvenir. We are also preparing for export. There is already interest from Russia, China, and Kazakhstan – tourists want to take the taste of Uzbekistan home with them. We are still growing, but in the future, Uzumfermer will definitely open itself to the world. If I return here half a century later, I would like to see a winery that has remained honest, family-driven, and alive, but has become known worldwide – educating, inspiring, and carrying the name Uzumfermer as a symbol of Uzbek terroir. – What advice would you give tourists planning to visit your estate and the region as a whole? What are the must-see places? – My first recommendation is always the same: begin your journey through Uzbekistan with a visit to our winery. That’s what we tell all the travel companies we work with – and there are many. Here you will feel the atmosphere of the country through food, landscapes and lively communication. It’s the first impression that will stay with you for a long time. From here, head to Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva – cultural jewels with histories that could never be invented. Uzbekistan is truly remarkable! And don’t forget to give yourself time for nature: the mountains, valleys, and foothills. There you will find silence, fresh air, and land that speaks for itself. So my main advice is this: don’t limit yourself to city tours. Allow yourself to experience Uzbekistan through its flavors, its landscapes, its tranquility, and its people. And we will be glad to be the very first page of your story about this extraordinary country. Editor’s tip If culinary discoveries in Uzbekistan are your passion, take note of Centrum Air’s new project, The Silk Ring. With direct flights linking Samarkand, Bukhara, Tashkent, and Urgench, you can explore cities rich in unique traditions – and taste the flavors of each region – in just a matter of hours.